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Welcome! |
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This guide will help you calibrate and tune your 3d printer from A to Z — and should work with most common printers and firmwares!
I have spent a lot of time developing and testing the methods in this guide, and I also hope to dispel some common 3d printer 📄 misconceptions and bad advice.
I hope for this guide to be free of misinformation, snake oil, and wives' tales (that are unfortunately quite prevalent.) It can be hard to differentiate the good information from the bad.
To follow this tuning guide, you will need:
- A ruler.
- Some tape or a marker.
- Maybe a piece of paper.
- ...that's it.
No calipers, micrometers, feeler gauges, or flux capacitors needed.
Some patience and willpower helps too.
{: .compat} :dizzy: Each page has a pink banner at the top indicating its compatibility with different printers and firmwares.
This guide was originally written for the Voron community, so there may be some Voron-specific notes and troubleshooting pages here and there. The main pages have all been made universal (or close to it).
⚠️ = ❗Please pay extra attention to items marked with this.❗- 📄 = Link to another page.
- 📌 = Jump to section (on same page).
- 💫 = Page compatibility
- 💡 = Note
- ![]({{ "/assets/img/klipper.png" | absolute_url }}) = Klipper
- ![]({{ "/assets/img/marlin.png" | absolute_url }}) = Marlin
- ![]({{ "/assets/img/duet.png" | absolute_url }}) = RepRapFirmware
- ![]({{ "/assets/img/voron.png" | absolute_url }}) = Vorons
- For issues, feedback, and contributions, please open a 📄 GitHub issue.
- My SuperSlicer profiles are located 📄 here.
- You can find the bed models and textures I am using 📄 here. The bed texture I am using in some of the older screenshots is from 📄 VoronUsers.