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+# Honolua
+Lightweight, high-speed.
+
+## Specs
+- deck length: 40 inches
+- reinforcement method: carbon fiber layup
+- difficulty: hard
+
+## Printing
+Prototype performed well with the following configuration:
+- material: **PETG**
+- line width: **0.6 mm**
+- infill: **15%**
+- pattern: **gyroid**
+- shells: **2**
+- supports: **yes**
+- Cura settings: **`Connect Infill Lines`, `Slicing Tolerance: Exclusive`**
+
+## Protective Equipment
+- disposable gloves
+- safety goggles
+- respirator
+- long sleeves and closed-toe shoes
+- well ventilated workspace
+
+## Tools
+- sanding block/sander
+- rubber mallet
+- silicone epoxy brushes
+- disposable cups
+- scissors
+- serrated blade
+- drill
+- rotary tool (optional)
+- lighter (optional)
+
+## Parts
+- 1 × `nose`
+- 1 × `front bridge`
+- 1 × `rear bridge`
+- 1 × `tail`
+- carbon fiber (enough for 4-6 layers)
+- epoxy resin + hardener
+
+## Assembly
+> [!NOTE]  
+> Prepare all protective equipment before starting.
+
+1. Sand all surfaces of the board until rough.
+
+2. Arrange the printed parts as follows: `nose`, `front bridge`, `rear bridge`, `tail`. Make sure all parts are oriented correctly.
+
+3. Hammer the dovetail joints together. When connecting two pieces, alternate strikes between the center and sides of the board.
+
+> [!WARNING]
+> If cracks appear in the printed parts during hammering:
+> - Small crack visible on one side: use softer strikes and regularly check for damage.
+> - Large crack visible on both sides: part is compromised. Remove and reprint.
+
+4. Sand as necessary to reduce unevenness at the joints.
+
+5. Mix ~150 mL resin and hardener and use the brush to evenly coat one side of the board. 
+
+6. Allow the base coat to cure until it is tacky, but not hardened. The time you should wait will depend on your resin. If unsure, check its state every hour after mixing.
+
+7. Lay down a sheet of carbon fiber over the board. Orient as many fibers as possible to run parallel to the board. Push down with a gloved hand to remove bubbles and encourage the resin to permeate the fabric.
+
+8. Allow the first layer to cure until the resin hardens.
+
+9. Use scissors to cut away unused carbon fiber from the rails and drop-throughs. Remaining overhangs that are difficult to cut can be removed later.
+
+10. Peel resin from brush. Repeat steps **5-9** for the number of fiber layers desired. The table below describes the stiffness for each arrangement of layers.
+
+| # layers: top/bottom | effect |
+|---|---|
+| 2/2 | soft flex |
+| 2/3 | stiff flex |
+| 3/3 | symmetric stiff |
+
+11. Give the board a top coat of resin and hardener. You may need more than usual to permeate the carbon fiber and achieve a smooth finish (~200 mL). You can use a lighter to remove bubbles. Allow to cure.
+
+> [!CAUTION]
+> At this point, handling the board is dangerous due to sharp edges/points created by hardened carbon fiber.
+
+12. Use a serrated blade to cut away overhangs and excess material.
+
+13. Drill the hardware holes.
+
+14. Repeat steps **5-13** for the other side of the board.
+
+15. Use the sanding block to smooth the rails and the drop-throughs.
+
+16. OPTIONAL: If there are still flaws in the surface of the board, you can lightly sand the entire board until level and apply a very thin layer of resin (<100 mL).
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